Zaoui, Myriam & Eric Malka: The Art of Shaving
(c)2002 Clarkson Potter/Publishers New York
Photographs by Susan Salinger
112pg small format hardback
Comments (DA): Plenty of B&W "classy" photographs throughout. Includes sidebars with little known facts about shaving.
7 Introduction by Eric Malka
11 Chapter 1 The History of Shaving
11 Shaving Through the Centuries
15 The History of Barbering
19 Chapter 2 The Skin of Shaving
19 The Importance of Proper Skin Care
20 What Is Skin?
22 Sidebar: Sebum
23 What's Your Skin Type?
23 Oily Skin
25 Dry Skin
25 Sensitive Skin
26 Prematurely Aging Skin
27 Your Facial Routine
27 1. Cleanse: before shaving and before bed.
28 2. Scrub: 1-2 times a week, not before shaving (exfoliant; use small beads, not sand or large beads)
29 Sidebar: Harsh Cleansers
29 3. Mask: different uses. Use at night
30 Selecting the Right Products: look for vitamins, plant and mineral extracts, vegtable oils, wax, natural essential oils (aromatherapy)
32 Essential Oiis Chart: a listing of 29 essential oils and the symptoms they can help with
33 Sidebar: Essential Oils history
34 Ingredients to Avoid: FD&C colors, D&C colors, HC colors (allergies, carcinogens); synthetic fragrances (allergies), TEA, DEA MEA, sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate (dry skin, upset pH, inflamation, damage eyes, suspected carcinogens); paraffin, mineral oil, petrolatum (clog pores); Methyl, propyl, butyl, imidazolidinyl urea (preservatives - allergies). "ol" alcohol products (dryness, eruptions)
35 Sidebar: Aromatherapy
37 Chapter 3 The Products of Shaving
38 Preshave Care and Products
38 Preshave Oils
38 Properties: Protects the Skin: contain natural oils, no alcohol
39 Properties: Softens the Beard: recommend clove, black pepper, sandalwood essential oils
40 Preshave Gels Properties: not recommended
41 Preshave Scrubs Properties: don't use before shaving
42 Products for the Actual Shave
42 Shaving Creams
42 The Lather-Up Shaving Cream Properties: best and most effective; jars or tubes w/30-40% fat (coconut oil) & glycerin
43 Use: generate lather on the face with a brush
44 The Nonlathering Shaving Cream Properties: toothpaste like, not as effective, usually have numbing agents menthol or benzocaine
44 Sidebar: Humectants
45 Shaving Soaps Properties: Similar to lathering creams. Get high fat content (vegtable or tallow) and glycerin. Inexpensive soaps are often bath soaps in disguise.
45 Use: with a brush in a bowl
46 Shaving Oils Properties: avoid numbing agents, not as comfortable
47 Shaving Gels and Foams Properties: can be damaging (synthtic fragrances, artificial dyes, preservatives, alcohol, gases)
48 Depilatory Creams and Powders Properties: hair removers should not be used
49 Use: under no circumstances
49 Aftershave Care and Products
49 AFtershaves Properties: antiseptic, sooth, moisturize, regenerate. Should be low or alcohol free.
52 Aftershave Balms (Creams) Properties: low or no alcohol, recommended for dry/sensitive skin
53 Aftershave Gels Properties: low or no alcohol. No oil, though, so less moisturizing. Recommended for normal to oily skin
54 Aftershave Lotions Propertes: High alcohol content. Don't use.
54 Use: don't
54 Alum Blocks and Styptic Pencils Properties and Use: stop the bleeding!
57 The Tools of Shaving
58 Shaving Mirrors: with tips for defogging
59 Cartridge Razors
60 Swivel-Head Razors: nondisposable swivel-head razors are by far the best. Gillette MACH3 and Sensor blades.
62 Fixed-Head Razors: disposable, uncomfortable
63 Sidebar: Twin Blades
63 Safety Razors: "safe is no longer the first word that coes to mind when describing the razor...nevertheless, men who use safety razors swear by them."
65 Straight Razors: no easy task, be sure to invest serious time in learning how
67 Electric Razors: "you'll never get as close a shave with an electric razor". Includes tips if you do use one.
69 Shaving Brushes: "the shaving brush is, in fact, one of the most important tools of shaving". The purpose, manufacture, badger hair, types described, care.
75 Chapter 5 The Techniques of Shaving
76 Electric Shaving
77 The Art of Wet Shaving
77 Water: wetting and maintaining the hair wet throughout the shaving process
79 Sidebar: Water and Hair
81 Preshave Preparation
81 Determining the Grain: which way does your hair grow
82 Applying Preshave Oil: for sensitive skin
82 The Actual Shave
82 Lather Up
84 Shaving Strokes
86 Aftershave Care: rinse, aftershave balm/gel
87 Sidebar: Shaving Techniques at a Glance
89 Chapter 6 The Challenges of Shaving
89 Basic Techniques and Maintenance for Beards, Mustaches, Goatees, and More
95 Shaving In the Shower: how to
97 Chapter 7 The Injuries of Shaving
98 Ingrown Hairs: What it is, who gets it, what causes it, how to treat it
103 Razor Burn: What it is, who gets it, what causes it, how to treat it
107 Nicks and Cuts: what they are, who gets them, what causes them, how to treat them